Portugieser 325 Silver / Art Deco / Feuille

In Context

At 41.5 mm it is sized to the current mainstream: 40 mm is the median across every watch measured in this catalogue. At 9.5 mm thick it is about average for a modern wristwatch. The case back is closed, so the movement stays out of sight, and the plexiglass crystal scratches easily but polishes back out at home, which sapphire does not. Rated to 1 m, it is protected against rain and splashes and nothing beyond that.

The movement is hand-wound, so winding it becomes part of the day rather than something the watch does for you. 54 hours of reserve is enough to set it down on Friday evening and find it still running on Monday. At 18,000 vph the seconds hand advances 5 times a second, the slower and more audible rate of an older design.

325 stands on its own in this catalogue — no other reference here shares its base number. It pairs a silver dial with a stainless steel case. It was a limited edition. Introduced in 1939.

Hand-wound savonette movement, most famous for its use in the early reference 325 Portugieser watches.