Aquanaut Travel Time 5650 Advanced Research

In Context

At 40.8 mm it is sized to the current mainstream: 40 mm is the median across every watch measured in this catalogue. At 11 mm thick it is about average for a modern wristwatch. The case back is open, so the movement is visible without taking the watch apart, and the sapphire crystal will resist everything short of deliberate abuse. 120 m is genuine swimming resistance — more than the shape of this watch suggests it would need.

The movement winds itself from the motion of your wrist. 45 hours of reserve carries it overnight, but not through a weekend in a drawer. At 28,800 vph the seconds hand advances 8 times a second.

5650G-001 stands on its own in this catalogue — no other reference here shares its base number. It pairs a blue dial with a white gold case. It was a limited edition.

2017 Advanced Research execution of caliber 324 S C FUS; featuring a new Spiromax balance spring made of Silinvar; apart from the patented terminal curve (Patek Philippe boss at the outer end), its geometry now also features an inner boss near the integrated collet, and a ompliant (flexible) mechanism crafted from conventional horological steel that is used to set the second time zone in time-zone watches. . The new control mechanism for time-zone adjustments with flexible elements unites a number of advantages: simpler assembly (12 parts as opposed to 37), faster assembly (4 screws), flatter silhouette (1.24 mm versus 1.45 mm), no mechanical play, no friction, and no arbor wear, which assures completely lubricant-free functionality. On the other hand, these benefits impose greater requirements as regards conceptual complexity and production methods that call for more extensive know-how.