Atelier Cabinotiers 80253 'Vladimir'

In Context

At 47 mm this is exceptionally large for something worn on a wrist, closer to a pocket watch given lugs. The sapphire crystal will resist everything short of deliberate abuse.

The movement is hand-wound, so winding it becomes part of the day rather than something the watch does for you. 58 hours of reserve is enough to set it down on Friday evening and find it still running on Monday. At 18,000 vph the seconds hand advances 5 times a second, the slower and more audible rate of an older design.

80253/000R-9593 stands on its own in this catalogue — no other reference here shares its base number. It pairs a silver dial with a pink gold case. It was a limited edition.

Vacheron Constantin caliber 2750 features an array of complications, in addition to the usual display of hours and minutes. To begin with the refined 60-second tourbillon mechanism stands out at 6 o’clock, while next to it at 3 o’clock appears the moon phase on a blue sky with a precision moon in gold, smiling or serious depending on the phase and hand-engraved by Atelier Cabinotiers craftsmen. To its right, a smaller counter with a small blued hand indicates the striking mechanism torque, i.e., whether the minute repeater mechanism is engaged. In addition to the hour and minute hands – one-of-a-kind pieces made especially for this watch –that travel around the slightly off-centre minute markers, the front side of the main dial provides a second time zone with day/night indicator at 11 o’clock. The power reserve indicator is located in the 9 o’clock sector, also enhanced by a 52-week indicator.